Method and apparatus for finishing hats



H H. WATSON. JR 2209,0 1 METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR FINISHING HATS Filed July 26, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet l VENTOR f/EEBEET 14447-50 JR P Y W ATTORNEY July 23, 1940.

H. H. WATSON, JR

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR FINISHING HATS Filed July 26, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 $5M II M750 Je INVENTOR 6? ATTORNEY iii Patented July 23, 1940 UNITED STATES anatn METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR, INISHING- a Hairs. H

Herbert H. Watson, Jr., Norwallr; Comm, assigner to- Hat Corporation of America, Comp, a corporation of Delaware Norwalir,

Application my 26, 1938, Serial No. 221,234

11 Claims.

The present-invention relates to a process for forming a beaded edge on the brim of hats and to apparatus for accomplishing such process.

Heretofore the brims of hats; have usually been provided with beaded edgesfor the purpose of improving their apearance and obtaining a socalled tied edge which strengthens the brim, re'

tains the shape thereof and prevents the outer edge from unravelling. The usual practice for obtaining'this effect was to fold back the outer marginal section of the brim and superpose the same upon the main section of the brim, and

then either to felttheturned-back marginal section into the main brim vsection or to sew the two superposed sectionstogether.

However, the processof felting together, the

superposed sections and making a so-ca1led felted edge required very careful manual opera an'improved appearance and constituting a socalled tied edge which retains the shape of the brim and prevents fraying or unravelling of the outer marginal portion thereof. I

Another important object of the present invention is the provision of a hat brim with an outer marginal section of greater thickness and solidity than the main section thereof and which consists of a single layer of material as distinguished from a folded-over or double layer.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a process and an apparatus, for producing a brim with a beaded and tied edge in a very inexpensive and simple manner and without requiring highly skilled workers.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a process and an apparatus for forming such a beaded and tied edge by a continuous operation and uniform movement, and entirely mechanically.

Still another object of the invention resides in a process and apparatus for simultaneously finishing the brim of a hat and forming a bead thereon.

Jsuch sewed One of. the" disadvantages of theiro methods known prior tothe invention wherein a nonrotating ironis m'oved'r'elative' to aspationary hat brim, or a rotating hat brim is moved relativeto a stationary iron,,=is that considerable friction is produced between the brim, and' cthe iron which results in a shiny appearance 'of th'e ironed portions of theibrim. v .f;

It is a further broad object of the inventiorifto iron a hat brim in such a manner as toreduce the friction between the iron .and the brinh'as much as possible and thereby avoid alshiny appearance of the, pressed portions.

e An important feature of the inventiomf or atlg taining the latterobject resides in concurrently applying, rolling pressure, upon the hat brim by suitable rotatable means, and moving the, hat brim and'the means relative -.'to.,each otherwar d atthe peripheral speed of the rotatable'means.

Another feature of the,inventionconsistsin ni e the provision of mechanism which is continuousiy and, progressively movable relative to ,the' hat and along, the hatbrim andwhichworks con currently and automatically, onthe brim to cone fine and compress the ,outer' section thereof within a. groove whereby a uniform bead formed of a strength depending onlthe pressure applied. 1. l Another featurefofthe inventionresides 'in a suitable apparatus for. continuouslyv rotating the hatand concurrently and automatically working upon anintermediate sectionof-the .lbrim -so as to flow portions threof graduallytoward, the outer margin and. thereby increase the same ,ln thickness. and strength.

provision of apair'of rotating rollers at opposite sides of a hat brim and of a cross-sectional shape corresponding with thefinalclesired shape of the hat brim, and including a peripheral groovefin at least ,oneof therollers. a

A further feature of the invention consistsin operating the last-mentioned rollers relative, to each other and relative to the brims of the-hat in such a manner as to mold a beaded and tied edge on the brim. V

It is another object of the present invention to soften the material of the 'hat brim andloosen the fibers thereof operation. 7 e l A feature of the invention for. attaining the latterobject resides the provision of one or to facilitate the bead forniing more nozzles for continuously projecting a cur rent of steam at least upon one side of'the ha t Another feature of the invention resides in ,the

the crown of the hat and the rollers, urging the rollers gradually toward each other so as to exert a rolling pressure upon the opposite sides of the hat brim, and gradually extending said pressure from an intermediate section of the brim toward the outer edge thereof.

Other objects, features and advantages will become apparent from. the following .detail ,de-

scription and the drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the novel beadforming apparatus.

Fig. 2 is a sectional of Fig. 1.

1g. 3 is a sectionalview taken along line 33 of. Fig.1.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged 'sectional view showing the bead-forming elements ofthe novel. appaview taken along line 2-2 .ratus in operative position witha portion of a Fig.5 is a detail side view of the guide block of the apparatus shown in Fig. 1.

' Before describing the present improvements andmode of operation thereof'in detail it'should be understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangement of parts shown in the accompanying drawings,

which are merely illustrative of the present preferred embodiments, and the phraseology employed is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.

Referring more particularly to thedrawings, a driving shaft I which is rotatably guided within bearings mounted'on a base plate I2, is provided'at one end with a pulley l3 which, inturn, may be driven by a motor (not shown) through a suitable driving belt. A worm M'is secured to driving shaft Ill near the other end and engages a worm gear |5on one end of a' shaftlfi rotatably mounted with bearings I! and H3 secured to the underside of the base plate l2. A roller |9 having a concave portion 20 forming a rotatable support for the'brim 2| of a hat is secured to shaft l6 and project sthrough an aperture 22 in the base plate I2 to such an extent that the forward edge 2 3 of the concave portionZlJ is at an even'level with the upper surface of the base plate |2, as clearly shown in Fig. 2. A gear 24 on shaftlfiengages a similar gear 25 on an upper shaft 26 supported in bearings 21 and 28, for rotating the upper shaft Him a direction opposite to the rotation of the lower shaft and at the same speed. A roller-29 having a generally convex portion 39 constituting the bead-forming and brim finishing iron, is secured to the forward end of the upper shaft 26. a.

'As shown particularly in Figs. 2 and 4, the convex portion 30 of roller 29 is provided at its rear end with a pheripheral groove 3l-which is designed to form and accommodate the bead 32 on the hat .brim 2|. Furthermorethe radius of curvature of the upper roller 29 is slightly smaller than that of the lower roller |9 so that the space 33 between the two rollers decreases gradually from the forward edge of the rollers toward the groove 3| in roller 2'9. Adjacent groove 3| roller 29 is provided with an enlarged hub 34 having within its rear face an annular chamber 35 for heating the roller 29, as will be later described. The lower roller I9, on the other hand, is provided with a reduced cylindrical portion 95 which also forms a heating chamber. 31 at the free end thereof. The wall 98 intermediate the portions 29 and 36 of the lower roller I9 is designed to slide along the corresponding wall 39 of the upper roller 29 and substantially in engagement therewith so as to limit movement of upper roller 29 toward the left as seen in Fig. 2.

As shown particularly in Fig. 3, bearing 28 supporting the upper shaft 26 consists of a lower block 49 in which are mounted a pair of bolts 4|. An upper bearing block 42 is slidably mounted on bolts 4| so as to be movable in a vertical direction relative to the lower block 40. Coil springs 33, the tension of which is adjustable by nuts 4 act upon the upper bearing block 42 to depress the same and normally maintain the upper shaft 26 in predetermined position relative to lower shaft l6 and to maintain gears 24 and 25 in engagement with each other. A pair of bolts 45 act to secure hearing I! of the lower shaft l6 and bearing block ll! to base plate l2.

A bar dfi'connected at one end by means of a chain 4? tea foot pedal (not shown) is pivotally secured toa pair of projections 48 of the base plate l2 by means of a pivot pin 49, and provided at the other end with an aperture 50 within which shaft 26 is designed to rotate. Suitable means. for example a slotted bracket 5|, may be provided to guidebar 45 in a vertical direction and prevent lateral movement thereof.

To permit limited pivotal Inovement'of upper shaft 26 relative to the lower shaft l6 and about bearing 2! so as to raise upper roller 29, the bearing surface 52 of bearing 2! is of arcuate shape incross-section, as shown particularly in Fig. 2.

A roller 53 designed to press lightly upon the inner surface of the crown 54 of the hat and to maintain the outer edge 16 of the brim 2| in contact with the wall 39 of the hub 34 of the upper roller 29, is rotatably mounted on a bar 55 which, in turn, is slidable relative to the upper roller 29 and resiliently urged toward the same by a relatively weak spring Pin and slot connections 5'! prevent lateral movement of bar 55, and a handle 58 serves to manipulate the bar 55 and guide roller 53 for insertion of the briiri and the lower part of the crown between the guide roller 53 and the upper roller 29. As shown by Fig. 2, bar'55 is preferably shaped and supported so as to produce theleast friction against the base plate l2, and is sopositioned that guide roller 53 impinges upon the crown 54 at a point substantially in line with the forward edge 59 of the upper roller 29-, as shown particularly in Fig. 1.

A stationary guide 69, shown in Figs. 1 and 5', consists of a hat support 6| and an arm 62 secured to the support at one end and having its free end 63 spaced from the support. The opposed surfaces 64 and 55 of the arm 62 and support 5| substantially conform in shape to one another to accommodate and guide the hat brim 2| between rollers i9 and 29.

For heating the upper roller a gas flame is projected from a nozzle 61 against the inner walls of the chamber 35. If it is desirable to heat the lower roller l9 also, a second nozzle similar to nozzle 5? may be provided to project a gas flame against the walls of the chamber 31 in the lower It has been found desirable, according to the invention, tosoften the felt of the brim by steaming the same continuously, while the same isbeing acted upon by the rollers I9 and 29, in order to facilitate and improve the bead-forming and brim finishing operation of the rollers. For this purpose, steam. lines 68 and 69 are provided to project jets of steam through nozzles M and 1|. preferably upon both the upper and lower sides of the brim 2| and shortly prior to the passage of the brimbetween the rollers. The amount of steam supplied may be adjusted by any suitable means, for example, either by making nozzles 10 and 1| of the adjustable type, by valves such as shown for example at 12, or by any other means. In addition to or in place of nozzle H, a jet of steam. may also be projected upon the lower side of the brim 2| through a steam line 69 connected to a passage 59a within the stationary guide 69 which terminates into a nozzle passage H, as shown in Fig. 5. By locating the mouth of the nozzle passage H at a point closely adjacent the upper end of the guide surface 65, only the marginal portion of the brim 2| on which the bead 32 is to be formed, will be softened by the steam. Any suitable means (not shown) may be provided for regulating the amount of steam projected from the nozzle passage ll.

Because the nap of the brim is depressed during the bead-forming operation by rollers l9 and 2 0, it may be desirable to raise the nap after the brim has passed through the rollers. purpose, a steam. line 13 may be provided to project a jet of steam through a nozzle 14 at least upon the upper surface of the brim 2|, and said jet may be regulated by a valve 15 in a similar manner as described above. Each of the steam jets projected through nozzles 10, 1|, II or M can thereforebe regulated independently of the others, and one may be shut off completely while the pressure of the other may be increased.

The novel method according to the present invention briefly consists of the continuous succession of steps of: softening or loosening the felt of the hat brim; continuously rotating the hat; applying rolling pressure moving in the same direction as the hat, at least upon one side of the brim and at a section thereof spaced inwardly from the outer edge of the brim; and gradually extending the rolling pressure from. such intermediate section toward the outer edge'of the brim so as to transplant or flow portions of the felt from the intermediate section to the outer edge of the brim to build up a bead thereon. In continuous succession with this method, the further steps may be added to shaping and pressing the bead, and then loosening the pressed portions of the brim and raising the nap thereon.

The operation of the apparatus according to the invention for carrying out this method is asfollows:

The motor (not shown) is started to drive the main shaft ill and thereby rotates shafts I6 and 26 and rollers l9 and 29 continuously and in opposite directions. Bar 46 is thenpivoted by a foot treadle so as topivot shaft 26 about bearing 21 and lift the upper roller 29 together with upper bearing block '42 against the action of springs 43. Concurrently with this operation, guide roller 53 is drawn manually toward the left as seen in Fig. 2 against the action of spring 56, and the brim 2| of a hat is inserted into the stationary guide '60 and then placed upon the lower roller l9. The foot treadle is thereupon For this i released whereby the heated upperroller 29 is urged by springs 43 agginst the upper surface of the brim 2|, and at the same time guide roller 53 is released so as to bear lightly upon the inner surface of the crown 5d of the hat and maintain the outer edge is of the brim in contact with the wall 39 of the upper roller 29. The hat is then continuously rotated by the rotation of the rollers I9 and 29 incpposite directions and their action upon the brim 2|. Steam is thereupon directed at least upon the upper surface of the brim to soften the felt.

In order to facilitate the formation of the bead 32 and to improve the final appearance and stability of the brim, the thickness of the latter prior to the bead-forming operation preferably increases toward the outer edge as shown in.

Fig. 4, while the space between the rollers gradually decreases toward the groove 3|. By the gradual and continuous rolling and pressing action of the rollers upon both sides of the brim and the difference in the shape of the two rollers, the surface portions at least of the intermediate section 15 of the brim are gradually displaced and forced toward the outer edge 78 until the groove iii in the upper roller has been filled out completely by such displaced felt and a bead 32 has been obtained. By varying the relative pressure of the rollers I9 and 29 upon the brim 2| by adjusting springs 43, brims and beaded edges of different hats may be given different solidity.

After continuously rotatingthe hat and rolling the brim for a certain length of time depending upon the particular kind of material worked upon, the guide roller is withdrawn from contact with the inner surface of the crown 54 and the foot pedal is again depressed so as to pivot bar 4% and lift the upper roller 29 from the finished brim 2|. The completed hat is then removed from the lower rollerand another hat inserted into the apparatus and operated upon in the same manner as previously described. Therefore, the brirns of a large series of hats may be finished and provided with a beaded and tied edge in a. continuous operation. Furthermore, the operation of the apparatus according to the invention does not require particular skill, and even an unskilled laborer may learn to operate the apparatus properly within a short time.

The hats finished with the present method and apparatus possess abrim of superior quality and appearance.

. Inasmuch as by the application of rolling pres" sure upon the brim and the concurrent movement of the brim in the general direction of rotation and at the peripheral speed of the rollers, the friction upon the brim is practically avoided, the dull finish of the brim including its beaded edge is maintained and a shiny appearance of the brim usually obtained with the ironing methods known prior to the invention, is successfully avoided. The dull finish of the brim may be further improved as above described by steaming the brim and raising the nap thereof after it has passed through the rollers. Furthermore, since the beaded edge along the outer margin of the brim is formed of a single integral layer of material, as distinguished from a turned-over edge, it is completely safe against fraying or unravelling. i

Although the invention has been described with particular reference to a hat with an upwardly curved brim, the apparatus can also be modified to bead and finish any other types of brims. In such event, it is merely necessary to replace .rollers l9 and 29 by rollers shaped according to the desired brim. Also, the beaded edge as produced according to the invention may be given any desired cross-sectional shape by providing a groove in the upper roller of a shape different from that shown in the drawings. Furthermore, by the same general method as described above, a bead may also be formed on the lower surface *of the brim by providing a groove in the lower roller l9, and the bead may be built up at an intermediate portion of the brim rather than at the outer edge thereof.

" Variations and modifications may be made the outer edge thereof; gradually shifting the pressure from the inner section of the brim toward the outer edge thereof to flow material of the inner section toward the outer edge to build up a bead on said edge; and ironing the bead.

, 2. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim, including a pair of rollers having opposed operating faces disposed peripherally thereof and adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween, one of said rollers having a peripheral groove therein; and portions on said operating faces converging relative to each other toward said groove to compress the section of the brim adjacent the groove and form a beaded edge on the brim and in said groove.

3. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim initially formed with an unbeaded edge, including a pair of rollers having opposed operating faces disposed peripherally thereof and adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween, one of said rollers having a bead receiving peripheral groove formed in the operating face thereof; portions on said operating faces, adjacent and ,at one side of said groove, in closer spaced relation. than adjacent portions on said operating faces spaced from said side of the groove, for

compressing a section of said brim and forming a bead on the adjacent section of the brim facing said groove; means for supporting a hat with the brim thereof between said operating faces; and means for rotating said rollers.

4. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim initially formed with an unbeaded edge, including a pair of rollers having opposed operating faces disposed peripherally thereof and adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween, one of said rollers having a bead receiving peripheral groove formed in the operating face thereof;

means on one of said rollers for engaging the marginal edge of the brim and for locating the latter relative to said groove; means for supporting a hat with the brim thereof between said operating faces; and portions on said operating faces, adjacent and at one side of said groove, in closer spaced relation than adjacent portions on said operating faces spaced from said side of the groove, for compressing a section of said brim and forming a beaded edge on the brim and in said groove.

5. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim, including a pair of rollers having opposed operating faces disposed peripherally thereof and adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween, one of said rollers having a' circumferential groove formed in the operating face thereof; a wall'on one of said rollers, defining one side of said groove and engageable with the marginal edge of said brim for locating the latter relative to the groove; projecting means on said other roller cooperable with said wall, for arresting relative axial movement of said rollers in one direction; and portions at one side of said groove and on said respective-operating faces, for pressing the section of the brim confined thereby and providing a bead on the marginal section of the brim facing said groove.

6. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim, including a roller member having an operating face disposed peripherally thereof and formed with a circumferential groove; an associated member having an opposed operating face, said operating faces being adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween and having portions converging relative to each other toward said groove; means for engaging'the marginal edge of said brim and locating the latter relative to the groove; and means for rotating said roller to progressively compress a section of the brim between said converging portions and to provide a bead on the adjacent marginal section facing said groove.

'7. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim, including a pair of rollers having opposed operating faces disposed peripherally thereof and adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween, one of said'operating faces having a circumferential groove formed therein; means on one of said rollers forengaging the marginal edge of the brim'and locating the same relative to said groove; portions on said opposed faces converging relative to each other toward said groove;

CPI

8. An apparatus'for forming a beaded edge on from said groove to compress the section of the brim at one side of the groove and form a bead on the section of the brim facing said groove; means for supporting a hat with the brim thereof between said operating faces; resilient means for urging at least one of said rollers toward the other; and means'for rotating said rollers.

' 9. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim, including a pair of rollers having opposed operating faces disposed peripherally thereof and adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween, one of said rollers having acircumferential groove formed in the operating face thereof; meanson one of said rollers, for engag ing the marginal 'edge of said brim and locating the latter relative to the groove; portions at one side of said groove and on said respective operating faces, for compressing the section of the brim confined thereby and providing a bead on the marginal section of the brim facing said groove;

means for supporting a hatwith the brim thereof between said operating faces; and normally stationary means for engaging the marginal edge of the brim and guiding the same to said rollers;

10. An apparatus for forming a beaded edge on a hat brim initially formed with an unbeaded edge, including a roller member, having an operating face disposed peripherally thereof and formed with a bead receiving circumferential groove therein; an associated member having an opposed operating face, said operating faces being adapted to receive a hat brim therebetween and having opposed portions adjacent and at one side of said groove, in closer spaced relation than adjacent opposed portions spaced from said groove to compress the section of the brim at one side of the groove and to provide a bead on the marginal section facing the groove; and a plate having a surface extending toward and providing a substantial continuation of the operating face of one of said members, for supporting a hat with the brim between said rollers.

11. A process for finishinghats having'a brim of felted material and initially formed with an unbeaded edge, including the steps of steaming the brim; and progressively compressing by means of rolling pressure a narrow strip around said brim at a short fixed distance from the outer edge to a lesser thickness, than before, to form a depressional groove in one face of the brim and to provide a beaded edge on said brim thicker than said compressed strip.

HERBERT H. WATSON, JR. 

